A Wine From Nowhere

A new line from Penfolds features two cuvées that combine wines of two continents. Do they transcend a sense of place, or are they wines of no place?

By Eric Asimov

As strange as it may sound, the most important thing about a wine is not always how it tastes.

Oh, a good wine has to be pleasing. It ought to refresh, invigorate and intrigue. As French winemakers love to say, the best wine is the bottle that’s empty after a meal.

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