What to Cook Right Now

A no-recipe recipe for charred cabbage slaw, to accompany whatever you’re grilling.

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By Sam Sifton

Good morning. I’ve taken to throwing a whole head of cabbage onto the grill a few minutes after I’ve lighted the fire, so that by the time the wood’s burned into coals and I’m ready to cook my protein, the vegetable is blackened and charred all over.

It’s a weeknight-friendly no-recipe recipe: Take that scary-looking monster into the kitchen and place it in your sink or a large bowl. After a few minutes you’ll be able to peel away the outer layers of scorched leaves. Get the steaming, smoky interior on a cutting board, cut it in half, cut out the stalk and chop the cabbage into shreds for a slaw. Dressed in a mixture of mayonnaise, sour cream, hot sauce and a healthy splash of red wine vinegar, it makes for a wonderful accompaniment to, say, a beer-can chicken (above).

That’s one option for tonight, anyway. (Please don’t write me an angry note about the perils of cooking with a beer can. You can get a vertical chicken roasting stand on the internet for less than $10.) Another is this stunner of a vegan summer dinner: savory Thai noodles with seared brussels sprouts.

Or maybe these mushroom shawarma pitas? This roasted salmon glazed with brown sugar and mustard is definitely worth a look.

How about Buffalo chicken dip? I promise you that is a real thing, and a very delicious snack to eat while watching television with your family. Hot dogs with pico de gallo? Samgyeopsal, with a smacked cucumber “quick kimchi”? These are also wonderful things to eat.

As is dessert, always. I like peach upside-down skillet cake this time of year, accompanied by bourbon whipped cream. Also, this fresh strawberry pie, which has some very helpful notes from subscribers attached to the bottom of the recipe. Hacks galore!

There are many thousands more recipes to cook right now waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. To answer a question I get quite a lot: You do need a subscription to access them. Subscriptions allow us to keep doing this work that we love. So, if you haven’t done so already, would you please consider subscribing today? Thank you.

(You can drop us a line if you run into trouble with the process: [email protected] Or you can write to me if you’d like to kick, shout or say something nice: [email protected] I read every letter sent.)

Now, it’s nothing to do with mung beans or fatback, but you should read Patrick Radden Keefe’s new collection of profiles, “Rogues: True Stories of Grifters, Killers, Rebels and Crooks.”

I enjoyed Philip Gerard’s look back at the working boats of North Carolina, in Our State magazine.

Here’s a fascinating “Diary” by Iain Sinclair in the London Review of Books, about the geography of wealth in London and its environs.

Finally, there are three new poems by Fahad Al-Amoudi in The White Review. I recommend the first one, “The Old Justice,” but please do read on through the others. And I’ll be back on Wednesday.

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